Monday, April 30, 2018

South Rim … Grand Canyon, Part 2.

Monday, March 19th, 2018 to Monday, 26th March; South Rim, Grand Canyon.

(Take Note: for those of you who have signed up to be notified by email of new postings to this blog, you have been receiving not just a notification, but an actual copy of the new blog posting as the email.  As this does not show the images of the paintings in the best possible light, you should click on the title of the latest blog posting at the top of the post, and not the title of the painting itself; this will open up the actual blog itself, and you may then enjoy the paintings at their best.)


Looking west from Mather Point.

Bright Angel Fault & North Rim.

North Rim Lodge 10 miles distant,
to the left of the fault.

Pyramid of Cheops.  
The green colour is the Bright Angel Shale, 
although there is a bit of contributing vegetation.

View east from Mather Point.

Monday was clear and cloudless, so I went to the Geology Museum at Yavapai Point, learned a lot about the Geology of the Grand Canyon, and listened to a most interesting talk.  I also began to get a handle on some of the mesas, buttes and geological features in the Canyon.  This knowledge was built upon over the next few days as I observed the Canyon from the various sections of the Rim that I visited.  One of the best walks was from the Bright Angel Trailhead along past the Geology Museum to Mather Overlook, but especially that part from Verkamps Visitors Center to the Geology Museum.  Along that section are a number of very good explanatory signs, and a series of rock examples from most of the rock strata in the Canyon.  The only improvement I could think of would be some signs pointing out the various named buttes, mesas and other features that one sees; that would help confirm the identifications I've been making.  I ended that walk near Sundown just short of the Geology Museum, where I watched and photographed the lengthening shadows at day`s end.  That night I left the Park to find a campsite in the Kaibab National Forest.  This was found 5.3 miles in on forest road 302, east of Tusayan.

Give us a kiss, then (Rock Squirrels at Mather Point).

Aw … you scared her off.

Good Tail, eh?

Well, maybe I’ll take five.

Looking coy amongst the rocks.

And I do have claws, you know.

Shiva Temple ...
behind and to left of Isis Temple.

Indian Garden … 3000’ below;
note diverging trail.

I spotted one of these ...
so far below I thought it was a Raven.

Examples of …

… Rock exhibits …

… along the Rim Trail …

… and of the information signs, too.










On Wednesday the 20th, I took the South Kaibab Trail down into the Canyon to get a different perspective, and to get a feel for these trails.  I only dropped about a thousand feet, and about a mile along the trail, but it was worth the effort.  A couple of mule trains passed me, going up as I descended.  I think they were resupply trains for whatever camps are down there; I should have asked.  That night I was back on forest road 302, but only two miles in this time, in a very good spot, where I stayed for the next three nights, spending my days, painting and taking hikes through the Ponderosa Pine forest.


Mule train coming …

… along the South Kaibab Trail.


The knob of rock on the white platform
is called Duck on a Rock.



I came out on Sunday the 25th, and started out on the Desert View Drive, towards the east entrance.  I continued my identifications of the Canyon`s features; seeing them from different angles was a great help.  Back into the National Forest, this time on forest road 310 turning on to 307 about a mile in from the Desert View Drive.  On 307 I had to go through a barbed wire gate, which was lying open as the old gate post was broken.  This gave me a chance to use my hand forged Swedish axe, that was a Christmas present from my siblings.  I found a downed tree that had a section about the correct thickness of the damaged post, lopped off the branches, and cut it off about the necessary length.  The next morning as I drove out, I did a cursory gate repair; it was far from perfect as the wires needed some sorting out, and I do not have a fencing pliers, but at least I was able to close the gate, as the sign on it requested.  That should take care of it until the Rangers can get to it.  The day was one of passing snow showers, which made Canyon photography very interesting, and provided a perfect coda to my Grand Canyon experience. 



Thomas Moran … an Artist I admire.

Snow shower over the Sinking Ship …

… and further Snow Showers …

… throughout the day …

… ah, very Moran-esque.


I left the eastern entrance to the Park and several miles down Highway 64, I turned onto the eastern end of forest road 307, the same road I had camped on the previous night, but about 20 miles to the east and a thousand feet or more lower, thus out of the Ponderosa zone and into the Pinions and Junipers, with the Coconino Rim beetling above me to the south.  Supper was cooked during a brief snow shower as the Sun was setting below the edge of the snow cloud to the west. While this is in the Juniper/Pinion zone, in the morning I noticed pockets of Ponderosas up on the Rim in shallow canyons.  These were reminiscent of the micro-climates within the South Rim of the Grand Canyon that shelter Douglas Firs, but this time the micro-climates were sheltering Ponderosas.



They farmed down there a thousand years ago.

Looking north towards
 Vermillion Cliffs (on the horizon),
46 miles away, from Desert View.

Looking east towards Cedar Butte.

Saturday, April 28, 2018

Snow … Grand Canyon, Part 1.

Saturday, March 17th, 2018 to Monday, 19th March; Grand Canyon Snow.


C1666
“Complimentary Canyon Colours”
(Grand Canyon National Park)
Oil Study on Pannelli Telati fine cotton Panel
5” x 7”

SOLD

This painting is a tough one to reproduce on screen.  I suggest that perhaps you look at it with slightly squinted eyes.  The amazing blue shadows of evening and the complementary oranges of the light on the buttes and mesas within the Canyon are the subject of this almost abstract study.


(Take Note: for those of you who have signed up to be notified by email of new postings to this blog, you have been receiving not just a notification, but an actual copy of the new blog posting as the email.  As this does not show the images of the paintings in the best possible light, you should click on the title of the latest blog posting at the top of the post, and not the title of the painting itself; this will open up the actual blog itself, and you may then enjoy the paintings at their best.)


Next morning … on to the Grand Canyon on a perfectly cloudless morning.  However, by the time I was able to get a campsite in the Mather Campground there, and got up to the visitors center, and watched the short introductory film, there was a lot of cumulus cloud, casting wonderful shadows across the Canyon.  I took a shuttle bus out west to the Hermit’s Rest and strolled back towards the east to Pima Point.  I found a rough footpath below the paved one and took that.  It was rugged and out of the wind, and even though only several yards from the paved path, had better views … makes you feel you have the Canyon to yourself.  By 16:30 you could see a front to the north, behind the cumulus, that portends the snow to come.  That snow came after 23:00 and only about three inches by Sunday morning, the 18th of March.

Distant snow shower.


Snow on the Canyon rim at 7000’  ...

… nothing at the Colorado River,
a mile below!


Pinyon Pine.

Yuccas in the snow on the Canyon rim.


I let the falling snow lighten and when intermittent Sun began to show, I took the shuttle back towards Hermit’s Rest, but this time got off at Mojave Point and slowly worked my way back to the transfer point at Bright Angel Trailhead.  It was a day of increasing Sun with the odd snow shower sweeping past, and cloud shadows turning the Canyon into a light show.  I will let the photos speak for the day.  Towards the end of the hike, I was looking down on Bright Angel Trail, when I spotted a doe and a fawn on the trail across this side canyon.  A pair of hikers were slogging up the trail, and I paused to see what would occur.  The deer stayed on the edge of the trail, but kept their eyes warily on the hikers as they gingerly slipped past.  Then they went off trail on one of the slopes to graze … they must be used to the hikers if they graze that area.  I happened to meet the hikers at the shuttle stop; I had a feeling that they might be the two I had seen, and so they were … a couple from Belgium.

Approaching snow shower…

… that got bigger …

… especially a bit in from the rim …

… and then passed on to the east …

… leaving a day of Sun …

… and Shadows.
The Temple of Zoroaster,
seen in the last photo, here top left.
The clocks went forward to Daylight Savings Time, recently, but not in Arizona, which does not do DST, although the Navajo Nation, which straddles the Arizona/New Mexico border, does.  None of this really affects me, as I did not change my watch to Winter Time last Autumn.  I decided that by not doing so I would have lighter evenings during the Winter, and also be early for things.  Psychologically it worked for me, and I am toying with the idea of putting my watch ahead an hour to have a “double Daylight Savings Time!” I might just not change it when I transition back to the Pacific Time Zone from the Mountain Daylight Savings Time I’m on now, once I get back to Oregon.


The Bright Angel Trail follows the Bright Angel Fault, which you can see here running diagonally from the lower right to the upper left.




You can see the trail below, lower right, but it splits neat Indian Garden, the green oasis in the center, and that trail on the left goes out to Prospect Point, while the other descends to the right and the Colorado River.  It crosses the River and continues to the North Rim, still following the Bright Angel Fault.
No snow 3000’ below at Indian Garden.

Doe & fawn on the Bright Angel Trail …

… confronting an upward trending hiker;
the snow will last awhile down there
in the shadowed canyon.


Pigments used in the painting:

Imprimatura: Rublev Ercolano Red;

Drawing & Block-in: W&N Cobalt & Ultramarine Deep Blue;

Pigments: W&N Cobalt and Ultramarine Deep Blues, Permanent Rose, Cadmiums Orange & Yellow Pale;

Rublev: Orange Molybdate, Italian Burnt Sienna, & Lead White #2.

Thursday, April 26, 2018

To the Grand Canyon via Sedona, Arizona.


Monday, March 12, 2018 to Saturday, 17th March; from Show Low to the Grand Canyon via Sedona.

Sorry for this six week silence, but libraries have been few and far between, or if present (not that I looked), inconvenient.  I have kept writing during this six week concentrated photo-recon journey through some of the greatest geologic wonders of the world, as the next several postings will attest.  I've also had (and still have) paperwork to do.  My phone also died on April 1st, of all days, and while it was not essential to my blog postings, catching up on a couple weeks or more of emails was a time consuming slog.  When it passed on, I had been catching up on the ten days of emails accrued while I was at the Grand Canyon, where, like at Show Low, I had neither cell nor data connection!  It lasted me 2 years and 4 months … the guy at Wal-Mart, on April 13th, said that was about right for a smart phone … is that true … anybody out there agree with that?  Since that was my first smart phone, I wouldn't know, but seems a little short to me.  He said old flick-phones lasted forever, as did my Tracfone, when I brought that up.  So, on to the first of my catch-up postings, from the public library at Springdale, Utah, just outside Zion National Park.

(Take Note: for those of you who have signed up to be notified by email of new postings to this blog, you have been receiving not just a notification, but an actual copy of the new blog posting as the email.  As this does not show the images of the paintings in the best possible light, you should click on the title of the latest blog posting at the top of the post, and not the title of the painting itself; this will open up the actual blog itself, and you may then enjoy the paintings at their best.)

It was later than planned, by the time I got out of that Show Low library, after failing to post my last blog entry.  I realized I had no time to figure out what was going on with the library Wi-Fi, so I headed west on State Hwy 260.  The road proceeds through the Ponderosa Pines on top of the Mogollon Plateau before dropping off the Mogollon Rim after sixty miles, and even after descending a thousand or more feet the Ponderosa forests continue.  Just before the descent is the Mogollon Visitor Center on the south side of the highway.  Here one has great views off the Rim to the south; there is also a forest road along the Rim to the southeast where there are even more viewpoints.

Montezuma Castle;
of course this dates from long before Montezuma
& had nothing to do with the Aztecs.

The Plasterwork shows how those ruins at Mesa Verde,
Hovenweep, Chaco Canyon, etc. might have looked.
Fourteen miles farther on I turned north onto forest road 64 for six miles, and just after entering forest road 198 I found my camp, for the night, with a view to the north of the Rim in the evening Sun.  About a half a mile before I found my campsite I surprised an animal in the road which proceeded to run down the road a ways before turning off into a ravine, much like the European Badger does.  Later, after much consultation with my Mammals book it was determined it was a White-nosed Coati; most likely a solitary male … another first!


Montezuma Well.

Leeches … yech!

The outflow from the well a couple hundred yards away.

The next day I was easily able to post my blog at the Payson library, twenty-one miles from last night's camp, and then move on down the road.  Payson is still within the Ponderosa zone.  Staying on State Hwy 260, it was a long climb back up onto the Mogollon Rim, and about forty-two miles from Payson the highway leaves the Ponderosas and into the Juniper/Pinion zone, as it begins its descent towards Camp Verde twenty-three miles distant.  Even though here at a much higher altitude than Payson, surrounded by Pondie forests as it is, the forest here transitions to the Junipers and Pinions … I wonder why that is?

Courthouse Butte.

My 1st evening ...

... in camp ... 

... west of Sedona.
Well, I didn't want to camp in the Junipers and Pinions again, so I back-tracked three miles to forest road 9246R, and passing a camper near the highway I went on in another half mile and found a delightful campsite.  I took an evening stroll, a wide half circle through the forest, arriving back to camp in the opposite direction from which I had left.  A big Elk had passed through the area recently, according to the tracks; Coyotes were also heard howling off to the west, a quarter mile off, I reckoned.  I spotted Stellars Jays at this campsite; happy to know they are down here in Arizona as well; I like those black headed blue denizens … like sapphires of the western forests. In the morning, while breakfasting, there were other various birds passing by.  I recognized White-breasted Nuthatches.  There was a pair of birds that I could not find at all in my bird book, other than in the ‘visitors' section … a Clay-colored Robin, that normally lives in Mexico.  That is the second bird I have ID’d that has come north out of its normal range, according to my bird book, but since it is a couple decades old, I reckon global warming was less advanced when it was published.

Next day the rain rolls in.

Showers … heavy at times…

… not always on me …

… many times over there …

… or over there.


From this camp, which I hesitated to leave, I dropped off the Mogollon Rim, again, down to Camp Verde over three thousand feet below!  The low altitude (3200'), of the Verde Valley might explain the high altitude for transition between the Junipers/Pinions and the Ponderosas.  Since I was so close, I visited a cliff dwelling misnamed Montezuma Castle; Montezuma lived centuries afterwards and had nothing to do with this finely preserved antiquity.  The builders were a different culture from those at Chaco Canyon, Mesa Verde and Hovenweep.  These people had been in this area for a long time before they constructed this structure, c.1250-1400.  The Chacoans had abandoned theirs by this time, and moved east towards the Rio Grande Valley, not southwest to here.  Up until the sixties you could go through these structures, but now it can only viewed from below.  Evidently most of the rooms still retain their roofs/ceilings … that would be something to see.  Eight miles up the road is Montezuma Well, a limestone sink, fed by continuously flowing springs.

Sun …

… & Shadows …

… & even bits of Blue Sky.


… and Rainbows …

… & yet more Showers ...

North through Sedona then west on State Hwy 89A, a few miles, to forest road 525, which I turned onto, ending up proceeding north ten miles, finally finding a campsite on forest road 525C.  There were a lot of other campers closer to the highway, and others deeper in, and I passed a couple of possible, but I’m happy to have continued on, for I found great views, a level spot, and no neighbors.  I have heard about the red rocks of Sedona, but the reality is quite astonishing, even after the wonders of the Moab area of Arches and Canyonlands.  The town of Sedona is plunked down in the middle of all this, and a cursory glance as I headed through to find a campsite 15 miles along, is of a similarity in affluence to Aspen, CO.  I'd like to spend time in this landscape, but this time will have to be scout only.

… all day long …

… until …

… the Light …

… of Evening cometh.

I managed supper about dark, in spite of the wind.  In the morning it was warm enough for only a sweater, but by mid-morning the rain and sleet showers began to roll through, and more layers were needed. I stayed put all day, writing this post and continuously jumping out to take photos with the ever changing light and showers varying the landscape every few minutes … in out, in out, in out!  Sometimes these are the best days in spite of chill winds and showers.  Late in the afternoon a flock of Western Bluebirds came through, and I was able to get a couple of photos, albeit through the glass of the side window of the truck.  Towards the end of the day the showers desisted, but the lighting effects continued until sundown … more photo ops.  I’m of two minds about Sedona … while the landscape is stunning, so many of the great views have a bloody town in the middle of it!  Perhaps if I were to spend more time here, I would find views without the bloody town.  But there is snow coming to the Grand Canyon and I want to be there for it.

Western Bluebird
(through the glass of my side window.

So, up through Flagstaff, and twenty-six miles beyond it, found my campsite for the night in a grove of Pondies, a half mile in on forest road 523, with a view of Kendrick Peak.  Windy all night, but before turning in I had a great view over the meadows of Venus and Mercury setting in the west; definitely the best apparition of Mercury I’ve ever experienced.