Friday,
1st of June to Saturday, 2nd June, 2018;
Big Den Creek,
Nevada to the Warner Mountains, Oregon.
|
Sand
Mountain. |
|
Once
the Pony Express ran by here … now ATVs sputter about. |
Upon
leaving Big Den Creek, I crossed over or passed around several more mountain
ranges, and the down into the Salt Wells Basin to Fallon, NV, re-supplied,
crossed over the Carson River and the edge of Carson Sink. This fairly dismal landscape, seems to form a
frontier between many of the plant communities I had become used to over the
past months, and those of the High Desert and the Basin & Range section of
the Pacific Northwest, for when I camped that night, half a mile off of Hwy 477
and northwest of the Black Rock Desert (think Burning Man Festival), I was
surrounded by Junipers only … no Pinyons … and certainly no Snakeweed. It was beginning to feel like southeastern Oregon
still close to a hundred miles off. From
Fallon I had passed through Fernley, crossed over Interstate 80, picked up
State Hwy 477, passed by Pyramid Lake, spotted wild burros north of mostly dry
Winnemucca Lake, in the Poito Valley, gazed up the flat expanse of the Black
Rock Desert as I crossed over its southern tip at Gerlach, NV, to my campsite
for the night near Squaw Summit. The
next day would see me back into Oregon, but not without incident.
|
Pyramid
Lake … for obvious reasons. |
|
Lake
Winemucca … mostly dry. |
|
Wild
… |
|
…
Burros. |
There
did not seem to be any Snakeweed in the area, so somewhere while crossing
Nevada, I must have passed out of the zone in which that plant thrives. Snakeweed is one of those plants I became
familiar with, during my months spent on the Colorado Plateau. The Native Americans would use bundles of it
to brush the prickles off the Prickly Pear Cacti, during food preparation; so
much to learn about the plants and animals in the world around us!
|
Last
Camp in Nevada … no Pinyons … no Snakeweed. |
June
2nd and twenty or thirty miles after crossing over Squaw Summit, Hwy
477 descends down into Surprise Valley, and passing from Nevada into the
extreme northeastern California. The
Warner Mountains had been visible all the way from the Summit, and now formed
the western wall of Surprise Valley. The
eastern side of this long valley is still the high desert terrain, I had been passing
through, and in the Valley are three long alkali lakes, dry for the most part,
but with stretches of water. However,
the western side of the Valley, between the alkali lakes and Warners, is lush
and green, especially at this time of year, and dotted with farms and ranches,
and some of the largest and most magnificent Cottonwoods I have ever seen. There are pools, and ponds, and marshes, and
green pastures; such a contrast with the lands I had passed through, beyond the
alkali lakes. And, yes, Surprise Valley
is a surprise, just as it was for some early pioneers heading along the
southern route to Oregon, some of whom turned around, once they got to Oregon,
and came back to settle.
|
First
view of the Warner Mountains from Squaw Summit on Hwy 477. |
|
Looking
up Surprise Valley from the South. |
|
Down
the Surprise Valley from Fort Bidwell. |
Cedarville
is the largest of three small towns in the Valley, with a population of about
four or five hundred. From here the main
road turns west and crosses over the Warner Mountains, to US Hwy 395 and
Alturas California. From there it is north along the shores of Goose Lake to
the Oregon border and Lakeview, a few miles further on. I did not go that way, but took the roads
less travelled. Heading north from
Cedarville, I passed through Fort Bidwell, with no shops still in business that
I could see. From here the choice is
northeast, on the lower desert/forest roads to the “wide spot in the road,”
Adel, on Hwy 140, or north on County Road 2 into the Warner Mountains, and the
latter is what I took.
|
Climbing
high out of Fort Bidwell … |
|
…
and higher still … |
|
…
and even higher into the Warners. |
|
Indian
Paintbrush. |
|
Unknown
white flower. |
Climbing
and climbing, up and up for ten miles, and from 4000’ to 8000’, brought me to
the crest of the Warners; I could have stayed on County Road 2 down to Hwy 395
and Goose Lake, but I turned northeast onto a small forest road (148, I think),
and began my descent towards the Oregon border that way. Squeezing past several trees that had fallen
onto the road during the Winter, finally brought me to a pair of trees that had
fallen all the way across the roadway.
ATV drivers had already been through, but had only cut a path through
wide enough for their little machines. I
lifted the tops of the trees off the road, but because of the small stream on
that side, was still unable to pass; time to give my Christmas axe a
workout! I worked through the branches
of both trees, clearing the way to safely get a swing at the main trunks of the
fallen. My Christmas axe ... a hand-forged,
Scandinavian Forest Axe, cut beautifully; thank you siblings.
|
Moonlight
Mine, just as I started down towards Oregon, from the highpoint. |
Half
a mile along brought me out onto high mountain meadows. The road became more rutted and very rocky,
and I began to think of turning around … there could be twenty miles of
this! But as I crested a ridge I could
see mountains in the distance that I recognized thirty or forty miles away, and
in Oregon; Hart Mountain on the right to the east, and Drake Peak in the Warner
Mountains on the left to the west, with the Warner Valley in between.
|
Out
of the woods with Mount Bidwell behind me. |
|
Hart
Mountain National Antelope Refuge in the distance to the northeast … |
|
… & Drake Peak to the west of the Warner
Valley. |
|
Some
sort of yellow flowers. |
I
saw a cattle grid a couple hundred yards away, and I decided to make my
decision to turn around or not, once I got there. The border was closer than I thought, for
once at the grid, a sign on the other side said “Welcome to the Fremont
National Forest.” That's Oregon, I
thought, since I was in California's Modoc National Forest. I crossed over into Oregon, eleven months
after departing the Twin Cities. Two
miles farther on, I camped within a grove of large trees that from a distance I
had taken to be Ponderosas, due to their size; they turned out to be enormous
and magnificent Lodgepole Pines; I've never seen Lodgepoles so big. I had said to the
Ranger at the Great Basin National Park Visitors Center, that I would spend
about ten days crossing Nevada … it took me seventeen … I was in a bit of a
hurry, or it might have taken even longer.
|
Standing in California looking at my truck in Oregon … made it! |
|
First camp in Oregon, amongst the large Lodgepoles. |
|
Pretty Blue Flowers hereabouts. |
|
These little blossoms were tucked in under the leaves, and only accidentally spotted they were under there. |
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